El Hierro - The Island Of Versatility - Day 2

After a while I finally found the time and muse to write a new blog post. So here is a little report of our second day on El Hierro. While reading and watching the pictures you will realize how versatile El Hierro is. I hope you are in the mood for a road trip story a la Katy. Have fun with it.

As I have already mentioned. El Hierro is the island of versatility. From desolate volcanic landscape, black-red colored beach, Mediterranean environment and Irish looking grassland. El Hierro is one of the most versatile islands I have seen so far next to New Zealand. I cannot deny it. And when you see the pics, neither do you.

However, there is one thing I would like to get off my chest first. Since traveling is right now not the best thing to do because of Corona. I would like to tell you how extremely grateful we are that we can live on Gran Canaria and that we had the opportunity to travel between the Camnary Islands by ferry. But due to the high numbers of Covid-19 cases as well o the Canary Islands, now it’s unfortunately not so easy to travel between the islands. Camping has already been forbidden on various Canary islands. That’s why we had so much luck to be able to travel to El Hierro in October last year. My husband and I are aware that nowadays, traveling is not a matter of course, that’s why we are very grateful that we were able to get lost for some days. Even if it was only for four days.

I already shared with you the arrival and the first day on El Hierro in one of my previous blog posts, where I wanted to transmit that on El Hierro exists a different rhythm of life, which helps you to unwind your soul and enjoy that time as much as possible. If you like to read that post, click HERE.

At the end of our first day we reached the beach “El Verodal” and shortly before that beach we discovered a nice place to stay in the middle of the black volcanic rocks next to the shore. The shape of the landscape on that coastline and the surrounding area was created by a volcanic eruption. Due to the dry climatic conditions of the western region, the scenery around the beach is very sparse and lacks vegetation.

So we settled down at this spot for the second night on El Hierro. Due to the nightfall, which came in quickly, we first prepared dinner. We had burger with goat cheese, onion rings caramelized with honey and Guacamole. During the barbecue the wind started to pick up. That’s why we decided not to sleep in the roof tent that night. Because in windy conditions it can be very noisy and this will unfortunately kill ou sleep. Therefore we didn't set up the tent but only removed the mattress that we put in our Land Cruiser (back seats are removed) to sleep inside the car. Due to the wind-issue, we still would like to convert our Land Cruiser from the inside with a bed, closet and drawers under the bed for the kitchen. We have already started the conversion a little, such as the insulation, floor panel, covering the beams with felt, wood paneling on the ceiling and adding storage space to the tailgate. We hope that the interior conversion can continue this year. So that we don’t have to pay attention to the weather conditions anymore.

After a delicious dinner, we continued to sit outside in the warm but windy summer night to discuss the plan for tomorrow and to let the fire of the barbecue fade out. We alsways pay attention of the campfire. Especially if it’s windy, because the Canary islands are often troubled with forest fires.

Once we have secured the camp fire in our fire bowle we left the ashes in the bowl and slept for the first time inside the Land Cruiser, which was a good idea, because we didn't notice anything of the wind this night, so we were not troubled to sleep this time. Even with our dog in the middle we had enough space. Surprisingly, it was very cozy and comfortable, which we wouldn’t have expected.

On the next day we got up early but well-rested and we went for a walk to the beach “El Verodal” to take a swim at the black and red colored 150 m long beach before breakfast.

The beach immediately catches the eye with its red shimmering volcanic sand and unfolds an impressive panorama with the rocky cliffs behind it. Early in the morning we even had some mist on the beach which made this scenery look a bit mystic.

But swimming at this beach is to be enjoyed with caution due to the often strong current and swell. But a short refreshment near the shore is perfectly possible as long as you keep an eye on the current and swell. The sea gets deep quite quickly, so in case of doubt you should always prioritize safety.

Sunbathing along the impressive rocky cliffs is far less dangerous. But even when sunbathing, it’s important to remember that rocks can sometimes fall from the cliffs. To be on the safe side, you should preferably sunbathing near the water.

Close to the beach, on the way back to the car, we discovered a wind-protected picnic area, from where you have a wonderful view of the bizarre bay as well as of the wide view of the Atlantic Ocean. The picnic area has been equipped with benches, barbecue area and palm leaves protecting from the sun. There are also public restrooms available.

Back at the Land Cruiser we had breakfast and in the early noon, after we cleans up everything, we wanted to drive further up into the higher situated landscape, which is called “El Dehesa”, in order to visit the only remaining juniper forest “El Sabinar”. In this kind of forest we would like to find another nice campsite for our third night.

But first we drove from “El Verodal” back to the HI-500 to get to the next village to find one of the few larger supermarkets. We even also found a small campground directly at the “Playa de Maceta” with a fresh water and dump station and sanitary facilities. But there is only space for about 4-5 small campers. It’s hard to turn with a big caravans. Especially not to get stuck because of the very loose gravel soil. However, as we have a 4x4 overlander we took the opportunity to fill up our fresh water tank.

From there we went back a few kilometers, through the pineapple plantations to a steep serpentine to get to the higher situated “El Dehesa”, which translated means meadow landscape. It was called like this, because in the past, most of the farmers let their goats, sheep and cows graze there. After a few hairpin bends, we had a wonderful view of the El Golfo valley and all the way to the Atlantic Ocean. The crooked juniper trees, which appeared on the way up from time to time, made this area look very Mediterranean.

After a while we turned left towards the ” El Mirador de Bascos” passing the beautiful chapel “Ermita Virgen de Los Reyes”.

A little later the road became a gravel road, which led us through the beautiful but also a little bizarre landscape of the juniper forest “El Sabinar”.

We found a suitable campsite below the “El Mirrador de Bascos” a little off the path. Since we were previously shopping some food and refueling water, we reached the campsite in the early afternoon. Quickly we set up our whole household and this time also our roof tent, since it was still quite windless at this time.

The previously purchased food we used for a rural picnic, like piquant cheeses, hand dried figs, fresh baked bread, olives and a fresh pineapple, all made and grown on El Hierro. It was delicious and a welcome snack.

Later we explored the area and went for a hike towards “El Mirrador de Bascos”. Until then we have had a very nice sunny warm day. But when we arrived at the steep slope a bit below the lookout, we saw some clouds rising up the slope and within a few seconds we were standing in the middle of the clouds or in the fog. The fog was getting stronger and stronger and the wind was picking up again. But after a while the wind has blown away the fog and the sun came out for some minutes, until the fog moved over the rocks again to came back. This has been repeated several times. Therefore it was not chilly, on the contrary it was still enjoyable. After we explored the area we went back to the camp site, because the fog became stronger and the sun disappeared completely. It was a special moment to discover “El Sabinar” in this fog, which wraps the trees and having visibility less than 20 meters, you get the feeling of being in a fairy tale forest. Spooky the juniper trees appear out of the fog while the fall winds push from the mountains.

I don’t want to hide from you that we of course thought about to move and to find a more weather-protected campsite. But in the end we decided to stay, because somehow we found it interesting and not uncomfortable. As I said, it was not very chilly, we had already spent colder evenings in New Zealand.

Besides, we have to get used to, even in not so pleasant weather conditions, to make the most of it.

From far away this whole area looked like in the savannah of Africa. Because the special thing about the trees is, they growing here in a bizarre shape. They owe their crooked and twisted posture to that permanent fall wind, which we were already able to experience today. Particularly old specimens have defied it for several hundred years. Today, many of the trees are already bent so far down that the crests touch the ground. Such trees and shrubs, whose growth form is determined by wind blowing mainly from one celestial direction, are also called wind fugitives. The impressive twisting growth of the old juniper trees is considered unique in the world in this form and makes them one of the landmarks of El Hierro.

After we had spent a mystical but special and also comfortable evening with a nice candle light dinner, a good bottle of wine and comfy clothes, we snuggled into our warm sleeping bags. Luckily the wind had dropped again during the late evening. So it was a quiet night.

If you wanted to know what happened the next morning and if we were surprised by the fog again, stay tuned. Soon I will publish the last part of our El Hierro road trip off the paths.

Cheers,

Katy

Pics by Daniell Bohnhof

Text by Look2 Ocean